How to Harvest Adenium Seeds


Harvesting Adenium Seeds
1. Pollinate the flowers by hand to improve the likelihood of good seed production. Male flowers will contain anthers, little yellow tabs within each flower that are covered with pollen. Female flowers will have a small stem-like projection called the stigma. Pick up pollen from the anthers within a male flower using a small paint brush and dust the stigma in the center of a female flower. The stigma will be sticky and will readily pick up the pollen.
2. Wait patiently. Watch for long, slender, bean-like seed pods to form, which will happen once the flowers have withered, due to successful pollination.
3. Wait until each seed pod has grown to between 11 and 22 centimeters (about 4 to 5 in.). Before each seed pod opens, place a plastic or light cloth bag around it and tie the bag in place.
4. Watch for the seed pod to split down the sides. When the pod opens, the seeds that are disbursed will be captured in the bag for later retrieval.
5. Remove the bag after the seed pod has opened and take the seeds out of the bag. Place the seeds on a sheet of white paper. Inspect the seeds to ensure they’re free of disease or damage.
6. Separate any chaff (casings) from the seeds. Remove the long tufts of white hairs projecting from each end of the seed.
7. Place the seeds in a small container and label it for storage.

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Adenium growing

Adenium growing

Adeniums bear another charming name called ‘Desert Rose’. These succulent plants live long in the tropical climate and have spectacular flowers. Fat trunk (CAUDEX) of Adenium impose a bonsai look to the plant.

Adeniums are easy to grow as potted plants and they are hardy and tough due to its Xerophytic nature. The beauty of Adeniums are such that it gives profuse flowering with or without maintance. The Arabians, Africans and Chinese consider them as lucky plants.


Adeniums are desert plants by its origin. This nature makes it fit even to thrive well under the full sun. The value and beauty of Adenium increases as it ages. The Chinese laughing budha with big stomach is considered to bring goodluck in the same way Adeniums with big caudex is considered lucky.

The Adeniums need more water as the temperature soars to 40+ C in India. During winter reduce watering for Adeniums and temperature below 4 C will kill the plants. In such cases it is advisable to reduce watering

Soil Type

Adenium need a porous and quick draining media like coarse river sand and farmyard manure mixed in the proportion of 1:1 . This mixture holds moisture well. Before the rainy season it is advisable to repot the plants with new soil mixure. This helps in better water drainage during rainy season. Basic idea is the soil should not be too much dry or wet.


Adenium grow in any type of pots with adequate drain holes. To enhance the flowering it is essential to give a liquid feed on a weekly basis. Occasional doses of micro-nutrients will help.


Once in 2 years Adenium should be cut back to 2” to 3” stubs to get fresh growth which induces profuse flowering.


It is advisable to repot the Adenium every 2 years with or without pruning in such a way that the root (caudex) is more exposed.

Pests & Diseases

Adeniums are tough – only a few pest attach them like Mealy bugs, Spider Mites and Aphids

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Making of coir waste compost

1.Can coir-pith be converted into compost? What is the method of converting raw coir pith into compost? What are the essential nutrients present in coir pith compost?
The Tamil Nadu Agricultural University, Coimbatore India and the Coir Board, have developed for converting the coir pith into compost by using a fungus call Pleurotus sajor caju and urea. For converting one tonne of coir pith into compost, 5 bottles of spawn culture and 5 kg of urea are required. The raw coir pith (100 kg) is spread uniformly over a hard floor of cement, stone, slab or brick in a layer of size 5×3 m with a thickness of 10 cm. Then 1 bottle (350 g.) of the fungus culture (spawn) is spread over the coir pith. Another layer of 100 kg coir pith is spread over it and add 1 kg urea over the second layer. This process is repeated by adding the fungus spawn and urea alternatively with 100 kg coir pith till heap reaches upto a height of one metre. Keep the heap as such with constant watering and cover with a thin layer of coir waste to conserve moisture. After 30 days of decomposition, coir pith turns into a black mass of compost with reduced lignin, cellulose, organic carbon and C:N ratio. The volume of material is also reduced by 40 percent. In order to ensure moisture retention and protection from heavy rainfall and wind adequate shelter need to be provided to the heap.
The major nutrients present in the coir pith compost are:
a. Nitrogen – 4.02%
b. Phosphorous – 0.06%
c. Potassium – 1.20%
d. Calcium – 0.50%
e. Magnesium – 0.48%
f. Organic carbon – 24.50%
g. C:Nratio – 24:1
Coir pith compost can be used as an organic manure in coconut gardens @ 10 kg per palm for young palms and 25 kg per palm for bearing palms.
2. How can I convert coir pith into compost?
The Tamil Nadu Agricultural University, Coimbatore, india has developed a method of composting coirpith and other coir waste. This involves the use of a suitable basidiomycetes fungus (Pleurotus sp.). For the preparation of compost an area of 5 metre length and 3 metre width is selected. One hundred kg of coir waste is spread uniformly. One bottle (300g) of spawn (culture of Pleurotus sp) is spread on the coir waste. This layer is covered another 100 kg coir waste, over which 1 kg urea is applied. This process of sandwiching the pleurotus and urea alternatively with 100 kg coir waste repeated till the heap reaches a height of one metre. To compost one tonne of coir waste, five spawn bottles (1500g) and 5 kg urea, are required. Water sprinkled on the heap to maintain the moisture c tent. The heap is kept for 30 days for decomposition. At the end of 30 days, coir waste turns into a black mass of compost with reduced C:N ratio and increased nutrient content. The well composed pith compost contains about 1 per cent nitrogen, 1.2 per cent potash, 0.06 per cent phosphorous, 0.5 cent calcium and 0.48 per cent magnesium.

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Grafting by David Clulow

It is now almost exactly one year since Khuong Hoangduc of Vietnam showed us his simplified method of flat grafting (21st March, 2008). I have been using this technique for the last year and now I would like to tell you about my experience.

I originally thought the graft union might not be very strong and vulnerable to breaking off. When very young this is certainly the case but after about three months the grafts are reliably strong. I used to use this technique only when I had very little scion material and frequently made grafts with just a single eye as small as 2mm. Now owing to the ease and speed of the technique I am using this method for most of my grafts apart from the top of the scion which is impractical to use for flat grafting. Also the healed graft union is less obtrusive than with “V” grafts.

2mm flat graft The scion has grown to match the diameter of the rootstock

I used to cover the top of the scion with a fungicide, Ridomyl. But once this was not available and I had to use a blue fungicide. This was toxic to the scions and the whole batch failed. Since then I have not used any fungicide. Please remember that grafting is a surgical operation and as such everything must be as sterile as possible – plant material, knife, secateurs, bench and not least your hands. Swab (pro. swob) both the scion and rootstock in alcohol and let them dry to sterilize them before cutting. If I could get one out here in the wilds of Venezuela I would do my grafting in a sterile cabinet (0.2 micron filter), but that is impractical, so I have to rely on keeping everything as clean as possible. You will need some extra equipment:
1 Secateurs. I used to use my Felco 7. These are superb and have a handle which rotates as you cut. If you are doing a lot of grafting then this feature will prevent you getting a blister on your palm. But if you are only doing a little grafting then a simpler pair will be perfectly adequate. I personally would not use any tool which had any rust or blemish on it. Therefore you will need a bottle of 3 In 1 oil (or similar) to clean your tools after use. Should any spot of rust appear I keep a piece of 450 or 600 grit emery paper to hand, to rub out the offending spot. When preparing the rootstock it is a good idea to keep the anvil of the secateurs above the rootstock so that if any bruising occurs it will be on the piece which is discarded.
2 Rubber Bands. I use small 1¼ inch. Under the influence of light and water these rubber bands disintegrate very quickly possibly causing the graft to fail. Therefore it is a very good idea to use a second rubber band to reinforce the first. They are very inexpensive.

3 Poythene film squares. These are cut from small bags that our local pharmacies use for dispensing small quantities of medicines. They are approximately 9 inches by 5 inches and fabricated out of 10 micron material (i.e. 1/100 mm). For “V” grafting I cut in half and used to throw away the bottom half. But for this grafting I now cut each bag into 4 or use up the lower half of a “V” graft bag, which I just cut in two.
This material is a little like shrink wrap. It stretches but is not elastic. I put the scion onto the rootstock and carefully place one of these very flimsy squares of plastic bag centrally over the scion. Then using a small rubber band this is held in position and then the plastic is carefully stretched to hold the scion in position
One of our members expressed concern about the polarity of flat grafts. It is usually very easy to tell which way up the scion is – the “D” shaped bud should have the flat side uppermost. Also if you work from the top of the scion, the top of the last cut will blacken quite quickly giving you another clue as to which is the top and which is the bottom. However, it is not the end of the world if you do inadvertently place the graft upside down – see next photo.

If you are using a Lenox knife with a disposable blade I have found a useful modification is to apply a small label or shim between the blade and the body of the knife which keeps the blade absolutely rigid – and no wobble!

And now we come to the actual procedure. As I have said before swab both your rootstock and scion with alcohol (isopropyl), allow to dry, then trim and cut as shown:

I now prepare the scion quickly slice just below the second bud

And quickly now, slice a thin sliver off the top of the rootstock

Now place the scion on the rootstock, I find it easiest with tweezers so I can position the scion exactly in the middle of the rootstock. Then with the other hand, take a square of the plastic film and place it centrally over the scion – then place a finger on top of this to hold it in place. This should all be done very quickly before any exudates appear in either the rootstock or scion. Now gently pull the film around the rootstock and then apply a single rubber band.

Now pull the plastic film below the rubber band – gently, to make a firm union between the scion and the rootstock. Then, finally apply a second rubber band. With light and humidity, I have found that around 10% of rubber bands will fail in the first week and cause the graft union to fail. This second rubber band will prevent this. The grafting is now complete, all you have to do now is to write a label and record your graft in your graft book.

I now place the grafts in full shade, after 10 days I cut the rubber bands off with scissors and remove the plastic film. As soon as the buds start to grow I place the grafts into a lightly shaded position for around two weeks and then they can go into full sun. They will start to flower after around three months.

This is a single eye (bud) graft after around three weeks. Some members have asked if I use super glue on the grafts. The answer is definitely NO. The white on the graft is quite natural.

These are some multi flat grafts in Vietnam

This really is a very simple technique and I can recommend it to anyone who is manually dextrous.

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Adenium Love
Gifts and Donations
Online Now
Edit Delete Cut
Adenium Pages–Andre Williams and Mark Dimmitt’s Adeniums
Adenium information and pictures
Pictures of adenium and other flowers
Arthropod and Insect Pest Identification and Management
HTML Document
http://mrec. ifas.ufl. edu/LSO/Manual/ insect-text- only.htm
Online Now
Buried Treasures
Adenium, Euphorbia, and Tropical Bulbs & Rhizomes
Durham Botanicals
This link is to Chris Durham’s new website. He also has an ebay store at & can be reached by email at . Chris has his wonderful plants, seeds, and sometimes supplies available. He does travel and temporarily closes his ebay store while traveling.
Many Species and Hybrid Adeniums shown on this Indonesia website.
Green Mind Growers llc
Top quality adenium hybrids foreign and domestic.
Guiseppe Orlando’s ADENIUM in habitat in Yemen photos
Send Message
How To Grow Plumeria – Frangipani
Step-by-step guide how to grow Plumerias which belongs to the Apocynaceae family like the Adenium.
Hybrid Adenium Double Flowers – Hussadee Nursery (Thailand)
Neo-Doxon Project (Thailand). We’re proud to present the Original World Class Adenium Multilaminate Flower (Double Flower or Fully Overlapping Petals Flower). -|-
KO. CHI-LUNG in Taiwan ,
Seeds and grafted Plants. Probably the most reliable supplier in the Far East. Ko’s Email:<> Also sells seeds and grafts, all true to name on e-bay
Woodland Creek Labels
Loresco Tropical Plants/San Juan,Puerto Rico
Adenium seedlings,Grafted Thai cultivars,Multigrafts,sizes 2″-11″ Caudex-Shipped ready to bloom-No Customs requirements on shipment to U.S. mainland from Puerto Rico
Nursery in Europe selling quality hybrids
Nursery in France that imports and resells Adenium in Europe
Phil Davis’ Seed Store on eBay .
Largest store,in the U.S, for adenium, pachy seeds:Thai Hybrids,spieces etc .
UK Site with a very wide range of both Adenium plants and seeds.Very Reliable
ASHISH HANSOTI’S Nursery in India. His website includes extensive information on Species, Cultivars and Hybrids,Cultivar Catalog, Cultivation, Culture, Propagation and Problems
The Greenhouse Management Guidesheets
Purdue University extensive information about greenhouse floriculture.
We want to collect adenium
We like flowering tree, Adenium is one of our fevrot plant. We are collecting different veriaties of Adenium in Pakistan.
Offline – adenium of indonesia
Information site of adenium in indonesian language.
Online Now
Self explanatory images for growing adeniums
pemuas nafsu sesaat
sangat menggairahkan
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Importing Seeds to the USA

As on January 28, 2011, as found on the USDA website at
smalllots_seed.shtml , here are the regulations regarding the
importation of Small Lots of Seed:  Small Lots of Seed

Lots of seed may be imported without a phytosanitary certificate
under the following conditions:

(1) The importation of the seed is authorized by a written permit
specifically for small lots of seed. Permits are usually valid for 3
years and cover multiple importations.

(2) The seed is not of any prohibited genus listed under 7 CFR
319.37-2; is not of any Federal noxious weed species; does not
require an additional declaration on a phytosanitary certificate;
does not require treatment; is not a parasitic plant; is not
genetically modified; is not pelleted, coated, or imbedded in
growing media, seed tape, cloth, or similar materials.

(3) If the seed is a field/agricultural crop or vegetable,
it meets the requirements of the Federal Seed Act import provisions
in 7 CFR 361.

(4) If the seed is regulated under the Convention on International
Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) or the Endangered Species Act,
it meets the additional requirements. 

(5) The seed meets the following packaging and shipping requirements:

(i) A typed or legibly printed seed list/invoice accompanies each
shipmen with the name of the collector/shipper, the botanical names
(at least to
genus, preferably to species level) listed alphabetically, as well
as the country of origin, and country shipped from, for each taxon.
Each seed packet is clearly labeled with the name of the
collector/shipper, the country of origin, and the scientific name at
least to the genus, and preferably to the species, level.
The invoice/seed list may provide a code for each lot, which may be
used on the seed packets in lieu of the full list of required
information. In this case, each packet must at least include the
appropriate code, which is referenced to the entry for that
packet on the seed list/invoice.
(ii) There are a maximum of 50 seeds of 1 taxon (taxonomic category
such as genus, species, cultivar, etc.) per packet; or a maximum
weight not to exceed 10 grams of seed of 1 taxon per packet;
(iii) There are a maximum of 50 seed packets per shipment;
(iv) The seeds are free from pesticides;
(v) The seeds are securely packaged in packets or envelopes and
sealed to prevent spillage [Note: we recommend that seeds are packed
in resealable, clear plastic envelopes to facilitate inspection];
(vi) The shipment is free from soil, plant material other than seed,
other foreign matter or debris, seeds in the fruit or seed pod, and
living organisms such as parasitic plants, pathogens, insects,
snails, mites; and

(vii) At the time of importation, the shipment is sent to an
approved port of entry listed in the permit

How to Apply for a Small Lots of Seed Permit: For fastest turn
around time, apply on-line at https://epermits.aphis. Alternately, use PPQ Form 587, Application for
Permit to Import Plants or Plant Products. On the first line of
section 3 of the application, enter “SMALL LOTS OF SEED PROGRAM”.
Starting on the second line, list the seed species and countries
from which you want to ship each species. If the list of species
is long, you may enter “eligible taxan”. By using this option, you
are accepting responsibility for determining the eligibility of the
seeds. The Permit Unit cannot tell you if the species are eligible
for importation if you do not list them. A permit is issued for
taxan that are admissible with no restrictions beyond the port of
entry inspection. If port of entry inspectors find prohibited or
restricted seeds in your shipment, they will seize and destroy the
ineligible kinds.

To determine the entry status of seed taxan, see (2) above and refer
to the Plant Protection and Quarantine Nursery Stock Manual’s
reference section.(Follow this link:
import_export /plants/manuals/ ports/index.shtml). Click on “Nursery
Stock Restrictions”, and then find the List of Regulated Propagative
Material starting on page 1-9 of the manual. Plants that are not
listed in this section are generally admissible and eligible for the
small lots of seed program. Plants that are listed in this section
are ineligible for the small lots of seed
program, with the following exceptions: 

•A taxon is eligible for the small lots of seed program if the
relevant manual entries exclude seeds (check entries at both the
genus and species levels and note family-level listings for
Cactaceae, Cycadaceae and Rutaceae).
•Species noted only as FSA-A or FSA-V in the “other requirements”
column are eligible, but must
meet the import provisions of the Federal Seed Act; i.e., the
labeling must include variety names for vegetable seeds and lot
numbers for both agricultural and vegetable seeds.
•Species noted only as CITES or ESA in the “other requirements”
column are eligible if accompanied by any required CITES or ESA
permits. Generally, seeds of both Threatened and Endangered plants
are regulated under the Endangered Species Act; however, the seeds
of Threatened plants are not regulated if they come from cultivated
plants. See:
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Adenium Colourful World!

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Why Adenium is so special?

  1. They are very easy to grow or it needs very little care.
  2. More than 300 varieties available.
  3. blooms lot most of the time with attractive  colours.
  4. We can grow in high-rise buildings too.
  5. We go vacation for more than a month without watering them.
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